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This morning I went surfing at Honoli‘i. It’s a sweet spot with numerous turtles & dolphin and surfers of all ages. Still, i feel like such a fish out of water. It’s like what the hell do I think I am doing learning how to surf at 46? I so wish I’d started earlier but I was way too consumed with trying to survive. I was this hollywood journalist for almost 20 years, tied to living in Los Angeles and New York and while it’s paid off immensely in that I got to save enough money to buy a little house of my own in Hawaii, sometimes I really do find myself, oh I don’t know, questioning myself. I feel so frivolous when I am having fun. As if I am going to be punished somewhere down the line. And surfing is the antithesis of being serious and working. Sunday Funday was a concept that was introduced to me by my current little gaggle of girlfriends who I’ve fallen in with here in this tiny little surf town located on the Big Island of Hawaii. My girlfriends are in their 20s & 30s as opposed to my women friends back in my “real life” in L.A. who were all in their 50s & 60s. Why is it that I’m surrounded by these gorgeous young spirits at this time in my life? Hmmmm. No answers will come today. In fact, searching for answers is something I should outlaw on Sundays. I have spent far too much time working, working, working and not enough time feeling and playing and chilling. So I suppose for today, that’s what I am going to do, let go, surrender, go deep and try and ride the happy wave.


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